Leather handle knife restoration

My ability to work on folding knives is very limited due to the fact it is not very practical for me to replace any of the moving parts or springs. But usually most blade repair work I can tackle, short of replacing the blade itself. This Schrade trapper folder had a broken tip. With the tip reground and some small rust spots removed, this pocket knife was back in service again. Soon it was almost good as new. It had been her daily companion until its tip got broken.

A fair amount of the tip of this Gerber Gator folder was broken off. An early attempt to repair it was evident. I came up with a repair that returned it to functionality, although it looks a little runty now…the client was very happy to have a working knife again.

An older Gyuto with subtle but significant damage to the edge. Numerous small chips along the edge made the knife less functional. The chips were small enough that I had to remove minimal metal to make it usable again.

This way I was able to preserve the wonderful old patina on the blade. This is a very typical repair. A common repair, replacing handle slabs. The slabs had cracked and split and needed to be replaced. The new slabs are straight-grain cocobolo. I was told by a knife purveyor that only of these particular blades were ever made. An early Ka bar fighting utility with a broken tip.

Note the full flat ground blade, very different then the current ones.

DIY Stacked Leather Handle Bowie Knife

A nice older Randall which had suffered some unfortunate accident. This project was a bit of a challenge since a good p ortion of the tip was missing and there were several angles and curves to bring together.

The client wanted a light patina added to the blade for a margin of protection. I really enjoyed this project; a beautiful older knife that was a ch allenge to work on. While hunting he killed a blacktailed deer and when butchering it proceeded to use this knife to try and break the pelvic bone. A small portion of the tip was also broken off. So I reground the bevels on each side with a slight convex grind, just in case he wanted to hack up anything else, and fixed the tip.

The sad thing is, the next fall he was hunting with this knife and lost it in a brushy creekbed.Just what you need to make a stacked leather handle for your hidden tang blade. These spacers are held in place with a guard and pommel. The handle can be finished naturally, use edge dye to darken if desired, or work with Neatsfoot oil for a nice hand rubbed finish.

Can be buffed and polished with rouge on a muslin wheel. KT Leather Handle Spacers. Sold in packages of eight spacers to equal about 1" thickness.

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leather handle knife restoration

Royal Blue Fiber. Canary Yellow. Cherry Red. Kelly Green. Set Fiber Spacer Material Mosaic Spacers Quick View translation missing: en. Color Walnut Mosaic Chocolate Mosaic. Walnut Mosaic. Chocolate Mosaic. Mosaic Spacers Birch Bark Spacers Quick View translation missing: en.Log in or Join. Adventure Rider. Dismiss Notice. Become a site supporter for a free shirt and ad free viewing. MrPulldownNov 7, Joined: Aug 18, Oddometer: 8, Location: Truckee.

My father bought it for me one summer before a camping trip.

Leather handled hatchet care/restoration

It was one of my most treasured possessions growing up. Pulled it out of the shed and packed it this summer for a camping trip and noticed that ringed leather handle was very dry and that some of the ring sections are starting to loosen.

Thought it could use some attention. I was about to sand it down and varnish with some spray on polyurethane I think that it was is in that can. But then I thought about the loose rings. Can I soak in something to swell them up again.

What say you? Maggot12Nov 7, Joined: Feb 21, Oddometer: 19, Location: Canada's ocean playground. No experience but have the same axe. I just googled Estwing leather handle replacement, and got hundreds of posts and videos on it.

ADV Sponsors. Yeh I read some of those. Most sand off the stock varnish and soak in oil. But they were mostly forum post with people's suggestions. I want to hear from someone that have done it. My fav is this guy who "rebuilt" his handle. Pretty cool.

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I did a similar restoration about 10 years ago on an old Camillus USAF knife with a leather washer handle. I wound up brushing it with clear nail polish rather than using a spray. My theory was that it would soak further into the handle to help stabilize the layers and should also be suitable for long-term skin contact. I don't recall it swelling the leather to any noticeable degree, it just filled in some of the gaps that had developed.

leather handle knife restoration

Seemed to work fine as far as I can tell, I think the knife is still seeing use in my brother's garden shed. Estwing is still in business. I have a carpenter's hammer of theirs from my grandfather, and the Estwing folks helped me with some Q's I had about it. They were kind and pleasant. Why not ask them? I'd like to see the before and after results if you figure something out. SmittyBlackstone likes this.

Joined: Apr 21, Oddometer: Location: Texas. My dad had this hatchet for as long as I can remember.

leather handle knife restoration

Best guess, based upon the scabbard is the 50s.You may have seen axes and knives with brown, striped handles. While modern copies may be made from plastic or composite material, that striped pattern was originally the result of stacked leather.

A stacked leather handle is incredibly comfortable and durable. It's also a great way to use up scraps of thick leather. It requires a fair bit of planning and some special tools and techniques, but the result is very rewarding and unique. As always, I've tried to provide alternatives to expensive tools and materials where I can. Remember, though, that the quality of your end product will depend on the quality of the material, skill, and time that you put in to it.

Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. There are a lot of different options for the tools and materials you'll need. I'll get into specific requirements in future steps.

If you're going to go through the trouble to make an awesome knife handle, you want to have a good quality blade. The crucial part when choosing a blade is that the tang, or metal part behind the sharp part that extends into the handle, must be as long as you want your handle to be, and be the type that is completely hidden inside the handle. There's just no need to risk damaging the blade, or yourself, while you work.

Take a few minutes at the beginning to make the blade safe and have some peace of mind for the rest of the project. I found that buying a complete knife was actually cheaper and more readily available that buying just a blade. I chose a knife from Mora. They are good quality, relatively inexpensive, and have a tang that is perfect for a stacked leather handle. After taping the blade, I carefully sawed and whittled away the wood handle until the tang was free. Draw this out. Now, measure the with and depth of your tang.

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In the centre of your drawing, draw the tang. It's important to make sure you always know where this will be. Cut out a little template from scrap cardboard, including the tang-shaped hole in the centre, and use this as a guide to begin cutting your scrap leather into handle-sized pieces.

Make sure you mark the centre hole on each piece. If you don't have enough scrap, check out any deals on belt blanks or remnant bags before spending money on a whole big piece of leather.

Take care not to rush this step or try and include pieces that aren't quite big enough. Additionally, it's important that each leather piece has a uniform thickness. See the diagram. Even one bad piece can ruin the look of the handle. To make the hole in each piece for the tang, I found it easiest to use a drill press and make a series of holes. The size of the hole can be a millimetre or two too big; When we compress the leather the hole will shrink a little, and there needs to be a little room for the glue.

The important part is that the hole is centered and consistent in its placement.It has been a while since I posted anything, but I hope that this Americana styled Bowie knife has been worth the wait.

Warm season here in Lusaka now, so it has been a challenge to start any project because of the heat! I am not an american, but I do have a friend that is.

Since I like the idea of the Americana style within limitsI decided to make this as a surprise present for him. He liked it! This instbl shows an overview of the different steps that go in to making a stacked leather handle on a pre-made knife blade. The cost of the project is around 70 USD and it takes approximately 6 hours excluding drying time. I have yet to make an instbl on the present box and the leather sheath. If there is interest I will do this shorthly.

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Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. Depending on the width of your handle you will cut the leather into squares of approx.

Then punch a hole in the middle using a special tool that you can get at leather dealers. You can also drill it, but that will take ages The number you need depends on the thickness of the leather and the length of you handle. So just divide the length by the leather thickness and you should get the number needed I probably didn't need to explain that. Also cut any plastic material that you want to use for stripes on you handle.

Cut this into same dimensions as above. I normally mount all the pieces without glue first - to make sure everything fits well. Remember to start with the brass guard in front!. Then add the plastic stripes of your choice - red, white and blue in this case.Visit our getting started page now for more details!

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Bowie Knife Restoration

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leather handle knife restoration

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Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. Posted 12 February - PM. First, remove the pommel. Once that is done, you are ready to start the new handle. I'm picky about my leather so I make my own washers from saddle grade tanned hides I pick out myself. Next, clamp the knife in a vise between 3 pieces of wood. Don't install this one or the pommel yet. I use a belt sander, but this can also be done by hand, just takes alot longer.

Don't worry, the glue holds everything together, so you can sand without the pommel attached. This helps save the finish on the pommel from being accidentally sanded. Next step is adding the grooves. I start using a thin metal cutoff wheel in an air grinder, but highly advise using files if you don't have much experience with the air tools.

If the knife originally had "V" spaped grooves such a the M4, you can stick with the triangular file. Our example here has square grooves, so after the grooves were started with the triangular file, I switched to the flat file for the finished cut.

Now it's time to decide on a stain color. I am very picky about colors blending so usually choose a shade based on the condition of the metal. If the finish is pretty much worn away, I go dark. This knife I would classify as "middle of the road, so started with a couple coats of "british tan" dye. After the paste has dried, I buff with an old piece of shearling lambswool. I only use the paste on the lighter colors. And here is our finished handle.

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